Monday, December 15, 2008

Skopje

The capital of Macedonia, is situated in central Balkans, on the crossroads of the horizontal and vertical road transversal on this peninsula. What gives Skopje its unique charm is the mixture of old and new. Its modern architecture makes an interesting contrast to the old spirit, felt in the old part of the town. Rich in history, monuments, and events, Skopje has a lot to offer to everyone.


There is a hill overlooking the city with remains of the citadel. They call it Kale (castle in Turkish). Fortress raised in the 6th century (its present appearance dates from the Turkish period). Entry is free and there is nice view of the old and new Skopje from this site. It is worth to know that Skopje was struck by a devastating earthquake in 1963 when more then 1000 people died but most of the old, historical buidings survived.


Skopje's old Oriental bazaar district - Carshija - is the largest and most colourful of its kind left in Europe. There is a lot of small shops in the narrow streets, cafes serving Turkish-style coffee... On the outskirts of this quarter you will find Kursumli Han, a caravanserai, or inn used by traders during the Turkish period. Unfortunately it was not open to the public when I was there.



15th-century Turkish stone bridge over the Vardar River linking the old and new towns. North from the bridge are the Daud Pasha Baths, dating back to 1466, once the largest Turkish baths in the Balkans. This buliding now is home for City Art Gallery. Opposite to the gallery you will find tourist information office (sorry - closed on Sundays - when I was there). There is also another former Turkish bath in the bazaar area, also housing the gallery - it is on my picture. And over the bath copulas you can see Mustafa-Pasha's Mosque from 15th century - one of the few city's mosques.


Wealthy visitors have their Holiday Inn conveniently located on the bank of the river. Budget travellers' choice is limited. Dom Blagoj Sosolcev Hostel is situated close to the railway station and charges 1500 MKD per person (YHF members have 10% discount). There is also private hotel-restaurant LAKI (Leninova 79, next to Netherlands' Embassy). They provide free pick-up and charge from 13 to 35 euro per night - depending on chosen room standard.



There are interesting orthodox churches in Skopje. The first one - Saint Dimitrij you will find just at the bus station located in the heart of the town - near stone bridge. But it is not so impressive...
On the picture you can see new Saint Kliment Ohridski cathedral orthodox church. It is contemporary architecture but definitely worth to see. I stands in the new part of the town, 10 minutes walk from the river.


No, it is not a pub. This is the interior of the cathedral church mentioned above - "Arhiepiskopskiot Soboren svet hram Sv. Kliment Ohridski Skopje" in the local language. Candles, religious songs, paintings - very special atmosphere...
Officials say that over 65 per cent of the population are Eastern Orthodox Macedonians and around 23 per cent are Muslim Albanians. There are also Muslim Turks and Serbian Orthodox minorities. As elsewhere in the former Yugoslav federation, local politics are now strongly divided along national confessional lines.


If you will come here in September you will probably see in many courtyards people preparing for the winter period local speciality - ayvar - made of red paprika. They dry red pepper on the primitive stoves - see photo...
Food is inexpensive here: you will pay around 400 MKD for the meal in the restaurant, a roll costs 6 denars, hamburger - 35, one kilo of grapes - 40.
A bottle of local beer - "Skopsko" cost 32 MKD, a bottle of local wine - 110 MKD, 1 litre of coke - 46 MKD. 1 USD was worth 53 MKD (macedonian denars - remember that they are not convertable outside Macedonia)





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